Riding the Khamsenn Wind: A Journey Through Jeddah's Unforgettable Moments
"Chop-Chop Square"
In the first chapter of Susan Zarif’s book Riding the Khamsenn Wind, she recounts an intense and deeply personal experience in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, on April 22, 1977. Zarif vividly captures the atmosphere of witnessing a public execution, an event that leaves a profound impact on her, both physically and emotionally.
The scene unfolds in the heart of Old Jeddah, where a crowd gathers in the infamous "Chop-Chop Square," the colloquial name for the site where public beheadings take place. Amidst the oppressive heat, Zarif describes sitting atop a car, observing the chaos and fervor that surround the upcoming execution. From the loud recitation of Koranic verses to the mix of people—local Saudi men, foreign laborers, and a smattering of other nationalities—Zarif paints a picture of a complex and deeply charged event.
Her narrative is not merely an observation but an exploration of the cultural and emotional dissonance she feels as an outsider, a foreign woman in a society where public executions are both spectacle and statement. The contrasting behaviors, from the excited crowd to the stoic soldiers and the composed executioner, underscore the gravity of the moment.
As the execution takes place, Zarif reflects on the blend of emotions swirling within her. There is a sense of awe, shock, and confusion. She questions her own motivations for being there—was it curiosity? A need to understand the cultural differences more deeply? Or was it something darker, a draw toward the rawness of human experience?
Through this gripping narrative, Zarif offers readers more than just a retelling of a public event. Her words resonate with deeper themes of alienation, identity, and the human tendency to seek understanding in the most unexpected places. Riding the Khamsenn Wind thus begins with a powerful entry into a world that is both foreign and familiar, inviting readers to join her on a journey of self-discovery and cultural confrontation.
